Arctic Ocean Trip Day Nineteen

Arrived home in Salt Lake City Utah. The trip is finally over. The total distance traveled is currently up for debate. The motorcycle odometer reports 7689 miles traveled (12374 kilometers). Two different GPS units report a distance of 7542 miles traveled (12137 kilometers). Either way it was quite a distance traveled.



Nineteen days of traveling and I’m pretty tired. The bike managed to get me home in one piece, which I’m pretty happy about. I’m none too happy with the Alaska Department of Transportation and their complete lack of construction zone warning.


This is final photo of the trip:



Arctic Ocean Trip Day Eighteen

Started the day in Kalispell, MT. We went to a nearby car wash; after a few flase starts from the Garmin GPS. It was an attempt to remove anything still remaining that might be clogging any air intakes.


We did a quick 120 mile stint from Kalispell to Missoula, MT, where we stopped and had lunch at The Montana Club. Pretty good food, more importantly it was a known quantity. Now that we were back in the US, Lea decided to participate in eating food, which was nice. Fueled up at the Costco and let the bike cool down.

Made it to Butte, MT for the evening. We tried to eat at a well rated restaurant but it was closed, so we decided to eat at the Metals restaurant. It is inside of a old bank built during the hey day of Butte.

It is a pretty cool location for a restaurant. The food was above average, the service was below average. We certainly could have dined at a much worse establishment so we were pleased with our choice for the evening.

Spent the night in the Motel 8 motel located next to the truck stop in Rocker.

Arctic Ocean Trip Day Seventeen

Started the day in Red Deer, AB. We went to Calgary for fuel. Bryan had his home blinders on and was brooding over us not going as fast a possible. So we split up. No big deal. An extra few hours ahead of us at home is not important to me.

Lea and I went south through Cardston, AB. My bike starting having oil temperature issues. The cooling fan was not kicking on. Clearly it succumbed to damage from the Dalton Highway.

I have not done laundry for a few days and I’m starting to smell pretty bad. Showering and fully washing myself doesn’t seem to ward off the evilness of my stink.

Lots of police in the Cardston area. We had a tribal indian police Yukon flash his lights at us but he never turned around. We passed him going at a not insignificant speed.

We crossed the border at the Carway border crossing. It was becoming quite hot.

Now inside Montana. we headed into Glacier National Park. The first ten miles had single lane pilot car controlled construction area. Driving behind these RVs and mini-vans on the dirt road is quite annoying. We pulled over to let my bike cool down again.

We cruised down the road a bit to Kalispell, MT. We ate dinner at the Montana Club. We wanted to try to get to Missoula to spend the night but were too tired to care any longer. After the all too frequent night-time-hotel-crazy-search we managed to find a room at the Outlaw Hotel. In a nutshell this place is a dump and should be avoided at all costs. The room rates during the summer travel months are ridiculously over-priced. The only nice point of the hotel was the toilet; a nice Kohler that reminded me of home a bit. There was barely any hot water, the beds were twenty years old. The sheets had been washed about 4,000 times in their lifetime and should have been retired quite some time ago. The window was broken and would not close. The list goes on and on.

Sleep, much needed.



Arctic Ocean Trip Day Twelve

Departed Wiseman in the morning and made it half way to Coldfoot, AK before running out of gas. I had to use some fuel from my emergency tank. It was plenty to get to Coldfoot to refuel. Bryan came back to check on us and he proceeded to run out of gas. The roads were still wet and slippery but at least I could see. My jacket and pant are still mostly wet but the rain liner is keeping my insides dry. My boots were so crusty with mud I had to bang them on the ground for a few minutes in order to free up the laces. The insides were still pretty wet. I put on the same socks because it was too much effort to get out new ones. They had mostly fried on the floor of the cabin overnight. We made it to the Yukon River crossing and they still had fuel. GS snob was back again. Mentioned he had a GS like five times, even managed to work in the fact that it was a 2014. I got to hear all about his awesome shocks. Dude … no one cares you have GS. Shut up.

Tyler had another flat in Fairbanks. This time it was terminal. We had to send a to truck to get the bike at a place called Mocha Dans where we shipped the wounded bike three miles to Dan the Man’s place Adventure Cycleworks. On a Sunday evening no less he replaced the Michelin Anakee III tires with Heidenau K76 tires, big improvement; much better tire. Dan is quite a character, but those are the best people. He was a big help and anyone thinking of doing the Dalton highway should look to him for guidance. He gave us many tips on how to take care of our bikes. Met a cool Brazilian guy named Riccardo who is a professional photographer.

Had dinner at some place called the family restaurant. Bryan wanted to eat there. It was really the only place open. He became violently sick afterwards. We stopped at a gas station (imagine that), I purchased a bear claw. Spent the night at the dorm room at the University of Fairbanks. This place must be miserable during the winter.

I was unable to record any video on the GoPro’s; too much work, not enough electricity, not enough time.

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Arctic Ocean Trip Day Eleven





Scariest ride of my life. The weather was so awful today. Constant rain and the road was turn to six inched is slushy mud. Visibility was non-existent. We managed about 100 miles in seven hours. When a truck passed by the mud splashed onto your visor and you could not see anything. If you opened your visor the rain stung your eyes. The DOT here coats the road with Calcium Chloride which eat motors and your face off. It makes the road doubly slippery. Antigun Pass was covered in fog and we could only see about thirty feet in front of us. Huge trucks appeared right in front of us doused us in mud. I was honestly very nervous the whole time.

We managed to get to Boreal Lodge in Wiseman, AK. We stayed in the new Polar cabin. Passed out on the bed.


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Arctic Ocean Trip Day Six

Managed some x miles today. Was unable to take Campbell highway. Quite disappointed in the loss of that adventure. Maybe some day.

Ended up in Whitehorse, YT. It is starting to never ever get dark. I mean to say is that at 3:00 am in the morning there is a surprising amount of light outside. As we move even further north the light will become even more pronounced. It is a little weird to be honest. I can understand why it bothers a lot of people. If you grow up with 24 hours of sunshine it might seem normal and may not irritate you. On the other hand if you grew up in the lower 48 states it is quite unusual to experience.



old bmw guy

bridge crossing

rain storm

melted 12v circuit

pot holes, tires

oil levels

bryan headaches

tags gas stop

signs in Watson Lake

town and mountain hotel

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